Seabourn Venture Maiden Voyage: Tromso to Longyearbyen to Reykjavik July 27th - Aug 21st, 2022
(click on a picture to enlarge)
July 24th, 2022. We flew on SAS from Keflavik, Iceland to Tromso, Norway (via Oslo) leaving at 12:15 pm. Check-in was smooth and with no SAS lounge we found a nice coffee shop in departures. Two couples next to us were on the same flight and were also booked on our cruise out of Tromso. ‘Business’ on SAS makes British Airways look good - ‘nuff said. We had 3 seats to ourselves on the first leg but we weren’t so lucky on second leg. Thankfully both were short flights, and the cabin crew on both flights were very nice. We had a 3 hour stopover in Oslo but the SAS domestic lounge made the time go faster. Arriving in Tromso at 10 pm, we retrieved our bags & took a taxi to our hotel. The airport is 7.3 km from downtown and cost 245 kr (approx $ 25). Our room, a Superior King, at Scandic Isavhotel was a bit disappointing with a limited view, but the breakfast was very good.
July 25th. We walked across the bridge to the cable car. Being told the next one would be in 15 minutes we waited outside. After 15 minutes we went in to be told we’d missed it & the next one was in 30 minutes! So got a refund & walked back to town. Bought some beer & chips, had a walkabout then back to hotel for a nap. Had dinner at an Indian restaurant on the main street. The Seabourn Venture was due to dock tomorrow at Kai 8, right outside our hotel.
July 26th. During the night we received an email from Seabourn saying we needed to have a covid test before boarding! We found a test centre a couple of kilometers away and walked there in the morning for an antigen test. Then in the afternoon we were told we needed to be boosted. This was a problem for Gwyn. We called our travel agent in the US who got in touch with Seabourn and managed to get an exemption, but she had to get a PCR test, the antigen test wouldn’t do. Went to the oldest bar in Tromso for a drink!
July 27th. It was raining, so we got a taxi to the test centre for the pcr test, getting there early to be first in line. As we were leaving some other Seabourn cruisers were arriving for a test – obviously they had also been caught out. The results took 2 hours but the lady administering the test was true to her word and emailed us as soon as they came through so we got them at 12 o’clock before checking-out of our hotel. Seabourn check-in was at the Clarion Hotel Edge, a 5 minute walk away. Deeming it too short for a taxi we wheeled our cases in the rain to the Clarion. After all of our tribulations they took barely a cursory look at our vaccination certificates - clearly we needn’t have bothered stressing over the booster! We had quite a long wait until boarding but there were refreshments and they were serving champagne so nobody minded too much! Boarding was by table and it was a short shuttle ride to the ship. Our Suites were ready, and after dropping off our hand luggage it was the Colonnade for a late lunch,and more champagne! After completing the obligatory safety requirements we set sail at 5 pm. The ship is really beautiful with plenty of public spaces. Only 118 guests on board but a lot of Seabourn corporate staff/families boosting the numbers closer to around 180.
Thursday July 28th Day 1. Storstappen Island. 48F/9C, rain, wind 24 kts. Had experienced annoying creaking & banging noises coming from our windows overnight (which would continue on and off the entire cruise). The planned experience was zodiac tours of the bird cliffs at Storstappen Island. Because of the winds/seas we moved anchorage from east to west of island. The zodiacs were put over but determined that weather conditions were unfavorable for safe outing as wind had increased to 30kts. Therefore all activities canceled for the morning. Can’t say I was too disappointed as I wasn’t ready for a 7:45 am start! The ship stayed at Storstappen and camera footage of the bird cliffs was beamed onto the screen in the Discovery Center. The plan for the afternoon was to hike to the North Cape (in the footsteps of early explorers), but on arrival the conditions were deemed not suitable so we joined a bus tour from Skarsvag at 4:30pm. With time to kill we headed for the bar but nothing was open in the afternoon. The bus trip was OK. The weather not great, mist/cloud/fog came & went making visibility at North Cape very poor. Had dinner in Restaurant followed by drink in Constellation bar listening to Bruno on piano.
Friday 29th Day 2. Sea Day. Overslept. Phone said 7:30 but announcement woke us up at 9:30! Biodiversity check for outerwear/bags that would be going ashore. Mandatory safety video, do’s & don'ts in the Arctic. No live TV & internet intermittent. Rubbish at Trivia. Went to the photography talk – learned nothing new, but the photographer was a nice guy. Had lunch in Colonnade, joining Jen & Anda, from Seabourn Corporate Ventures Team, who were really nice and wanted to hear our views on the cruise/Ventures Program. I think by the end of the cruise they regretted asking me for my opinions! Dinner in Colonnade.
Saturday 30th Day 3. Bear Island. Announcement at 7:03am! 7C wind 10-13kts. Zodiac tours of bird cliffs. Pretty miserable, rough & rainy. Had terrible zodiac ride, we got no warning when we sped-up/slowed down and being at the back of the zodiac didn’t help the overall experience. Although to be fair our driver had her hands full keeping us off the rocks & the ornithologist, who told us very little, was clinging on like the rest of us for most of the time. Having said that the bird cliffs were really impressive. Dinner in the Colonnade with Barry & Alvina (a couple we’d sailed with before) “Earth & Ocean”.
Sunday 31st Day 4. 7C, light winds, flat calm, overcast. First glimpse of Svalbard Archipelago. Planned landing at Poolepoynten to view walrus. We were in late group at 3pm. There were 6 groups with 3 groups in each rotation. We were in the green group. Rotations were Blue/Green/Yellow and Red/Orange/Brown. Internet much better, streaming via our Firestick. Managed to watch the Charity Shield. Several glaciers in the distance off port side. Having got ready the landing was canceled as determined that there were no walruses at the landing site! We moved to the end of St. Johns fjord to view the glacier & zodiac tours of a fissure. No internet. Sun came out. Bear spotted which surprised first kayak group. First zodiac tours got good viewing. By time we got out it had gone to ground, looking like a bath mat! Zodiac tour of glacier bit disappointing.
Monday August 1st. Day 5. 5C/45F overcast calm sea. Morning landing & hike at Texas Bar, an old hunter’s hut. Last out in morning & first out in afternoon. No internet. Hike turned out to be a 300 metre walk! Afternoon zodiac tour disappointing (back of zodiac again!). Had afternoon tea in Constellation lounge which was good. Dinner in Colonnade, drinks in Constellation Bar.
Tuesday August 2nd Day 6. Sea day, heading for the Polar Ice. ETA was 6 am, so I was up & in Bow Lounge at 5:45 am only to find there was nobody around and nada/zilch to see. The screens indicated 2 hrs 40 minutes to destination. Returning at 9 am, there was still 1 hr 40 mins to go, but at least some other people were around. Apparently the Captain had to change course because of poor visibility. I mentioned that an announcement re the delay would have been nice & lo & behold when I got back to our suite an announcement was made! Visibility improved as the morning wore on and at 11:55 am/81.22 degrees north, we encountered the first serious ice. We hit the ice cap at 2:30 pm & it was very impressive. Decision was made to stay among the ice overnight. Dinner in Colonnade with Bonnie & David. At 2:30 am an announcement was made that a polar bear was approaching the ship! All cameras on deck!
Wednesday August 3rd Day 7. Still on the ice. Based on last nights bear sighting the Captain decided to stay until late afternoon. A Polar Plunge was offered. There were quite a few takers (not us!) and it proved to be a great spectacle. We left the ice at 2:30 pm, exactly 24 hours after our arrival. Sea day poor weather.
Thursday August 4th Day 8. Zodiac tour of Storoya island then landing at Kvitoya island. Early start at 7:30am. 3C/37F with 6kt wind and fairly calm sea. Walrus in sea & on beach at Storoya & lone polar bear on the beach. Afternoon landing canceled ‘cos several polar bears spotted on the beach & in vicinity. Substituted zodiac tour – more beached walrus & several bears a long way off.
Thursday August 5th Day 7. Brasvellbreen (the Sudden Swell) glacier, has the longest glacier front in Northern Hemisphere. 4C, 6kt wind, calm sea, rain. Cruised along glacier but poor visibility. In afternoon landed at Kapp Lee, Edgeoya. Walrus on beach & a reindeer grazing. Epicurean dinner in Restaurant with Jeff, Mike, Lisa & Neil. Drinks in Constellation lounge with Barry & Alvina 'til late.
Saturday August 6th Day 8. Landing & guided walk at Gnalodden Hornsund. 5C, calm sea, overcast, cold wind at 9kts. We were 2nd group out at 10:00am. Quite a nice spot. Afternoon zodiac tour among the ice with Norwegian guide who was really good. Video recap of the cruise was rather poor. Earth & Ocean in Colonnade.
Sunday August 7th. Longyearbyen. Changeover day at end of first cruise segment. 9C/48F. Mild out, low cloud & rain. No internet & still no live tv. Went for a walk around town & did some shopping in morning. Seabourn organised a bus tour in the afternoon for those that were not disembarking. Those embarking in Longyearbyen had traveled from Oslo on two charter flights and they were generally not happy with the arrangements. The flights were very early in morning & they had to wait in a hotel in Longyearbyen for their suites to be ready. The Sail Away was delayed due to lost baggage. Apparently some incoming luggage got mixed up with some outgoing luggage & was sent back to Oslo! Finally pushed away at 615pm. Dinner in Restaurant & dance party in Expedition Lounge bar. Four of us plus Sarah & the Duo.
Monday August 8th Day 10. Overcast, calm sea C/41F, quite cold. There has been quite a bit of downtime on this cruise, and only sporadic internet. Morning consisted of mandatory briefings for new passengers from which we were excused. Cruised to north west Svalbard for pm landing on Grassnett peninsula, an old whaling station in Magdalena fjord. Arctic terns were vicious. Met John & Phillip a couple from Adelaide and discovered that Marque & Eddie were on board, a couple from Amsterdam with whom we had sailed before. Also discovered 2 other couples from Bermuda had come aboard.
Tuesday August 9th Day 11. A return to Monacobreen & Texas Bar. We were at 79.12 degrees north. 4C/39F, 4kts wind and 100% humidity. Delayed start due to the polar bear’s best friend, fog. Managed landing at Texas Bar – about as unexciting as the first time. Afternoon plans canceled due to conditions & headed early for the polar ice. No internet again. Spent time on deck trying to capture birds in flight. We hit the ice at 10 pm, having spotted a Blue Whale en route. Just like the first time around, the fog rolled in so had to change course.
Wednesday August 10th, Day 12. 81 degrees North. We hit the ice again at 6 am. At 6:30 am a polar bear was spotted feasting on a seal. It was quite a way off & visibility was rather poor, but great experience nevertheless. There were several seals off the port side which boded well for spotting polar bears. 7 kts wind & 1.3C. Hit 81.35degrees north and saw 3 bears in all, two with kills. Quite an astonishing day. Polar plunge offered – declined again – water was -1.7C/29F!
Thursday August 11th, Day 13. Back from the ice. 7C & sunshine. Landing & guided hike at Ny London (across the fjord from Ny Alesund). Old mining site & railway machinery, not very impressive. Would have rather gone to Ny Alesund. In pm had zodiac tour in front of an active glacier with several calvings. Dinner in Colonnade with M. & E.
Friday August 12th, Day 14. 9C, overcast with calm sea. Landing at Poolepoynten, named for Jonas Poole (British) the first whaler in Svalbard & discovered coal. Maybe half a dozen walrus doing absolutely nothing & we were kept several hundred yards away from them! We were last out having waited at least 30 minutes for our zodiac, then hurried back ‘cos program was behind schedule! In afternoon the planned landing at Alkhorn was abandoned due to the large swell at the landing site. Afternoon spent scenic cruising, with Fin and Minke whales putting on a show.
Saturday & Sunday August 13th/14th were sea days en route to Jan Mayen Island.
Monday August 15th, Day 17. Jan Mayen Island (Norway) is a volcanic island in the Atlantic Ocean with no permanent residents, although there is a Research Station. Wet landing on black sand beach. The research station was on the opposite side from where we landed. Being volcanic the landscape was black & bleak. The peak of the volcano remained shrouded in cloud except for one brief instant when everyone scrambled for their camera’s. It was nice to be able stretch our legs after 2 sea days and we walked as far as we could in the time allotted there being no restrictions as no Polar Bears around! Even so, we had to be accompanied by one of the expedition staff. Clocks put back an hour overnight. Supposed to be 1st submarine deployment but canceled.
Tuesday August 16th, Day 18. At 8:0 am we got our first glimpse of Greenland’s icy peaks and icebergs in Scoresby Sound. It was sunny with blue skies but very cold at 3C. A picture perfect day for caviar on ice, sitting motionless amid the icebergs, mountains & glaciers, oh my!
Wednesday August 17th, Day 19. Morning landing was very disappointing. Most interesting part of the day was watching the submarines being deployed for the first time. The cruise up the fjord ‘dodging’ the ice floes was quite interesting and the afternoon zodiac tour among the icebergs at Rode O (Red) Island was pretty amazing. Rode O Island looking incongruous in the icy surroundings. There were more submarine dives in the afternoon. Feedback from those that took the plunge was mixed. Nobody wanted to say it was a waste of money but there were no ‘amazing sights’ either. I think everyone was hoping to see beneath the icebergs but the subs kept well away from them.
Thursday August 18th, Day 20. Ofjord. As my opportunities were fast running out, I got up at 4:30 am to photograph the sunrise. Thankfully I wasn’t disappointed. Plan for the morning was to follow behind the ship in zodiacs then form a ‘V’ formation in front of ship for a promotional photo op. A tad boring & didn’t work out as planned ‘cos some zodiac drivers thought it was a waste of time. Afternoon zodiac ride around Bear Island was pretty good & musk ox spotted from distance. Epicurean experience back on board with icebergs floating past in the sunshine.
Friday August 19th, Day 21. Ittoqqortoormiit, at 70 degrees north the most isolated settlement in East Greenland. Population around 350. Zodiac landing. Inuit dancing & dog feeding. Felt a bit like an intruder. At 7C it was quite cold. The wind at 16 kts and increasing did not bode well for the crossing to Iceland. 50 knot winds & 15 foot seas were expected. Glad to say that the ship handled the crossing very well.
Saturday August 20th, Day 22. Itinerary was Vigur Island & Isafjordur but changed to Patriksfjordur. Excursion to Latrabarg Cliffs offered which, having been there before, I thought was a bit ambitious given the cold & windy weather. Took advantage of the included ‘fish walking tour’ with explanation of the importance of the Icelandic fishing industry and a tasting. It was actually very good.
Sunday August 21st, Day 23. Disembarkation in Reykjavik. Made our own arrangements so no hurry to get off. 2 nights at Kvosin before flying to UK.
Final Thoughts.
This was the Seabourn Venture’s maiden voyage. Not classed as the inaugural ‘cos no dignitaries on board. We had chosen a Panorama Suite & were on Deck 5 port side. Beautiful suite but on deck 5 the view was partially obscured by the balcony rail, so recommend a higher deck if thinking about a Panorama Suite. Also, ship seemed to be experiencing quite a few teething troubles. We suffered from creaking windows throughout the cruise, which could be annoying at times e.g. middle of the night! But, at least we didn’t have to change suites like one couple we talked to. Even though Seabourn has had a Ventures Program on other ships for some years, most notably in Antarctica, full-on expedition cruising is new to Seabourn, and I don’t think they have got it quite right. Based on my experience it is expedition cruising for softies, with way too much cotton wool wrapped around the passengers, and very tame shore excursions. Sad really because the expedition staff were very knowledgeable and experienced and I felt some frustration from them at not being able to make full use of their capabilities. I wonder how many of them will stay with Seabourn. Likewise the crew were brilliant, the best of the best, handpicked for the Venture & the ship itself is truly beautiful. I really wanted to like the new product but sadly it will more than likely be my first and last cruise aboard the Seabourn Venture.
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