14 nights, ca 3,000 kilometres
Days 1 & 2 Snaefellsnes peninsula
Days 3 & 4 Snaefellsnes to Akureyri
Days 5, 6 & 7 Akureyri
Days 8, 9, & 10 Egilsstadir
Day 11 South Coast
Day 12 & 13 Vestmannyyear (Haemaey)
Day 14 Grindavik
Day 1: Arrived Kevlavik on BA 0800, departing LHR at 7:35 am. Momentary panic when it looked like bags hadn’t made it! Stocked up on beer & wine at duty free in arrivals - 30% cheaper than at the Vinbudin. Car rental shuttle now curbside at arrivals. Used Blue Car Rentals, which has gone from a small ‘mom & pop’ outfit to a major player in the last year. Dacia Duster, manual diesel. Didn’t notice that aerial missing so no radio reception. Big downside! Weather pretty appalling, not too cold but rain & very poor visibility. Reactivated Icelandic sim at Simmin to discover that it still had 10gb of data on it!
It was a 200 km drive via Borganes to Langerholt Gardar, our first place of stay, stopping in Borganes en route for groceries. Langerhlolt could be described as strange or interesting depending on your point of view. There was a short walk to the beach, but weather was too miserable to try it. It has a 9 hole golf course but we only saw 2 rental sets of assorted clubs. Dinner buffet at 6900 ISK was good with soup, fish and lamb. Dessert was a bit disappointing as the ‘selection of homemade desserts’ turned out to be ‘happy marriage cake’. We had booked a ‘classic’ room, which was in the old building and could best be described as ‘basic’. It had the essentials but no frills. The small heater didn't put out much heat so we commandeered a portable heater that we found in the corridor. On the plus side, the staff were extremely pleasant and the tea and coffee station was a nice touch. Breakfast was adequate, with homemade breads & jams, fairly typical of what we have come to expect in Iceland.
Day 2: Langerholt to Sudur-Bar Guesthouse, Grundafjordur (119 km). Bad weather continued from the day before! Rain, poor visibility and a promised high of 9 C! Having no set agenda for the day, there was no rush to get out and the weather improved as the day wore on. Our first stop was at Ytri Tunga (Seal Beach) - tip: check the tides. The tide was out and the seals were so far out they were impossible to spot with the naked eye. Next up was Bjarnafoss(waterfall), a short walk from the road, then on to the Black Church at Budir which was just as we remembered it. We stopped for coffee and a walk at Arnastapi before backtracking a short distance to Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge – we didn’t go inside as stream running quite full & a bit precarious. Our last stopwas at the Lifting Stones at Dritvik, before driving to Grundafjordur and checking in to Sudur-Bar for the night. Sudur-Bar is about 4km off the main road (rt 54) approx 2km east of Grundarfjordur. It enjoys a westward outlook to Grundafjordur and Kirkjufell. Few options for dinner so had fish & chips at Kaffi 59 in Grundafjordur. It was OK, rock music a bit loud, but seemed to be the only place open. Our ground floor room at Sudur-Bar was comfortable with private bathroom. I found the bed a bit on the hard side. Breakfast was limited but adequate.
Day 3: Sudur-Bar to Hraunsnef Country Hotel, Bifrost (130 km). Weather was cold and windy. Stopped at Grundarfoss, a fairly impressive waterfall about ½ mile (15 minute) walk from the parking area. We were disappointed that it’s not possible to get up close as the area is fenced off. Next stop was Helgafell (Holy Hill) outside Stykkisholmur, but it was windy & cold and visibility was somewhat limited. On a clear day the view would be incredible and probably worth the 400 isk entrance fee. We took the unpaved rt 54 along the fjord, joining rt 60 and stopping for ice cream (can recommend the rhubarb) at Erpsstadir farm before checking in to Hraunsnef Country Hotel on Rt 1. The lamb dinner that we had been looking forward to was not as good as we remembered it, and the 3 course special had jumped in price since our visit last year - it was now 8900 isk. We even had the same room as last time (# 25) which had been refurbished with a nice espresso coffee maker.
Day 4: Hraunsnef to Einsstadir Cozy Cottage, Akureryri (300 kms). After breakfast we spent a bit of time wandering around the farm with the ducks, pigs & cows. We decided to revisit Glanni waterfall about 6 km south on Hwy 1, before heading northeast to Akureyri. We only had one stop planned at Kolugljufur Canyon approx 6km off Hwy 1 on Rt 715. The canyon is approx. 1 km long with a series of waterfalls and rapids. The scenery is a bit different from other parts of Iceland, seeming somewhat gentler with fewer signs of volcanic activity. However, with long fertile river valleys and plateaus the scenery is no less stunning. We stopped at Bonus for supplies before checking in to our accommodation for the next 3 nights. Einsstadir Cozy Cottage is located off Hwy 1 just east of Akureyri (before the tunnel) with a nice view southward. Sadly trees blocked the views west & north. The cottage was comfortable with more than adequate facilities. Even though we didn’t use it, there was a washing machine in the shed outside!
Day 5: Husavik, Bird Colonies, Echo Rocks and Asbyrgi (339 km round trip). The weather was again disappointing with rain and a cold wind. We decided to drive to the farthest point, Echo Rocks and work our way back to Husavik. It was a long drive but the roads had all been newly tarmacked which was a nice surprise. Very windy & cold at the overlook to Echo Rocks, but quite pleasant down in the river valley. We walked for about 5 km among the rocks but we were a bit disappointed as some paths closed. Asbyrgi, a horseshoe shaped ridge was likewise a bit of a let down. We didn’t get to the bird colonies as we weren’t sure we had the right road (later found out that we did!). The weather improved in late afternoon and it was sunny by time we got to Husavik. Perhaps our expectations were unrealistic because of ‘Eurovision’’ but it seemed that not much there apart from Whale Watching. Took pictures of ‘the church’ and had a fish & chip supper overlooking the harbour.
Day 6: Aldeyarfoss and Godafoss (145 km) Sunshine! There were 3 cruise ships in port. The drive to Aldeyarfoss was a 3 hour round trip including 40 km each way on a gravel road but well worth the effort. We skipped Godafoss due to the crowds. We went into Akureyri in the evening, but not much happening. Bought 2 fish & chip suppers from Moe’s lunch wagon to take back for supper. Highly recommended!
Day 7: Einsstadir to Stormur Cottages, Vallanes (Egilsstadir), via Lake Myvatn and Viti Crater (300 km). It was nice weather for our early start for the drive to Egilsstadir. We made a quick stop at Godafoss, just as the tour buses were beginning to arrive, to remind ourselves of its presence. ItSseemed smaller than we remembered it but isn’t that always the way! Our tour of Lake Myvatn comprised an unscheduled stop at at Skutustadir, for a walk around the pseudo craters; the ‘Black Castles’ lava columns which were a bit disappointing; and ascent of Hverfell Crater before stopping at the Cowshed Café for coffee & cake.
Then on to Viti Crater just before the weather started to deteriorate becoming cold and windy. Running late we skipped Dettifoss and stopped at Rukandifoss close to the road and nearer to Egilsstadir. After buying supplies at Bonus we checked in to our cottage at Stormur, a small working farm with 3 identical rental cabins that would be our home for the next 4 nights. The cabins are modern, very small but adequate for the two of us.
Day 8: Borgafjordur (puffins) and Seydisfjordur (228 km). It was a nice surprise to find that they have paved most of the road from Egilsstadir to Borgafjordur. Aside from 15kms still under construction and the low cloud being a bit scary on the higher elevations, it was a nice drive. It was cold and windy at the puffins, but there was a café to get warm (new since our last visit). There were many more puffins than we remembered and, between a couple of ‘warm up’ spells in the car & the cafe, we spent a good couple of hours watching their antics. The drive back over the hill was again shrouded in heavy cloud. As it was too early for dinner we detoured to Seydisfjordur. It is a long winding road and the weather was not conducive to stopping to admire the views so after a quick drive through the town we headed back to Egilsstadir for dinner at Salt, promising ourselves that we would return if time & weather allowed.
Day 9: Waterfall Trail at Laugarfell (124 km). Woke at 5 am to bright sunshine. The drive took about 1 ½ hours (approx 80 km) up over the mountains. The weather wasn’t as good at Laugarfell, windy and quite cool. We opted to take the 7 km loop river trail. It turned out to be the longest 7 km we have ever walked, taking close to 4 hours, but the waterfalls and the scenery made it well worth the effort. The footing was wet in places and despite the red markers it was easy to lose the trail. The trail follows one river valley down & a different river valley back up, the turn being at the confluence of the two rivers, both ending in waterfalls to make a single river that continues down the valley. There are hot baths at Laugerfell and a hostel. Coffee is available but no food. There are toilets. After our walk we drove towards the glacier before returning to Stormur.
Day 10: Hallormstadur (forest) and Hengifoss (60 km). The weather had turned again waking to low grey clouds & rain. Hallormstadur is Iceland’s largest forest at 740,000 hectares. There were several well marked trails but, as the weather wasn’t promising, we decided to stick tothe lower, shorter Blue trail, through the trees. As it happened it didn’t rain, and like yesterday the 5 km hike felt a lot longer, taking us over 2 hours. For reference we usually do a 3 mile walk in 45 minutes! Being gluttons for punishment we then decided to hike the 2.5 km up (& back) to Hengifoss, one of Iceland’s tallest waterfalls at 128 metres (the top of it being 450 metres above sea level). As luck would have it we found ourselves alone at the base of the falls when it started to rain, putting an end to any thoughts of Nat Geo photographs. Needing to fill the car and get some snacks for the next day’s long drive we returned to Stormur the long way round, along the west shore of the lake and through Eglisstadir. By the time we got to Egilsstadir the rain was torrential. Got quite wet filling the car and popping-in to Netto’s. Had dinner at the Salinn Diner, bringing a tub of ice cream home! Warning, avoid the Egyptian (falafel) pita. Gwyn was violently ill during the night.
Day 11: Stormur to Dalssfel Guesthouse via the south coast (598 km). Got off to an early start leaving at 8:15 am for the long drive to Dalssfel guesthouse near Landeyjahofn, the ferry stop to Haemaey. We decided to go the long way round following Hwy 1 as the weather was once again not good. It was cold, raining with low visibility going over the mountains but once through the tunnel the weather improved somewhat. A Holland America cruise ship was anchored in the bay and passengers were being tendered ashore as we stopped at Djupivogur for a toilet break (nice clean public loos). As we ventured further west the weather continued to improve. Stopping at Hofn for a second toilet break, and pastries from Netto, the views over to the glaciers were stunning. We skipped Jokulsarlon & Diamond Beach as not much ice visible and continued on to Vik (another toilet break and diesel for the car). A warning light indicated that the tyres needed inflating but there was no air hose and the tyres looked OK. We arrived at Dalssel at 6:30 pm after making several photo stops. Andres, the owner, was very welcoming, chatty & informative. It was clear that he really wanted his guests to get the most out of their stay, giving advice on where to go & what to see. The guesthouse is a converted tractor shed comprising 8 rooms and a communal kitchen. Andres was very proud that he did most of the work himself, taking 2 years.
Day 12: Dalssel to Vestmannaeyjar (30 km). We paid extra to have breakfast at Dalssel which was a typical buffet prepared by two Irish teachers on a working holiday. Really nice couple, very chatty, as were the other guests. We had booked the 10:45am ferry from Landeyjahofn, a short 10 minute drive away. It was a well organized easy process getting on/off the ferry. The weather forecast wasn’t good and it was grey but dry when we arrived on Haemaey. As we couldn’t check in to our hotel (Hotel Vestmannaeyjar) we parked the car and hiked to top of Edsfell volcano. As we got to top the weather closed in and visibility was very poor, so hiked quickly down and went to Stannsin, an old fort with a hospital museum & stave church. After a picnic lunch we headed to the hotel as the rain started. We had planned to visit the bird cliffs but as the weather was really miserable we decided to chill and enjoy our room. We had an early dinner at Gott (recommended to us). It’s a very popular restaurant and although we didn’t have a reservation they gave us a table which they needed back in an hour & fifteen minutes! And, sure enough we were ushered off promptly! Gwyn had fish of the day (cod) which she enjoyed. I opted for the fish platter comprising shrimps, scallops cod & red fish in a cheesy sauce which was just OK.
Day 13 Vestmannaeyjar to Mar Guesthouse, Grindavik (177 km). The weather hadn’t improved overnight so we had a leisurely breakfast before checking out at 11 am. We can highly recommend the hotel, friendly staff, a large comfortable room and a good breakfast. We wanted to visit the Volcano museum which didn’t open until 1 pm so, despite the weather, we drove, via the golf course, to the bird cliffs and glad we did because they were loaded with puffins and other seabirds. There weren’t many people there so we were surprised to bump into a couple of guys that had been at Dalssel the day before. In contrast to the cliffs, and despite the weather the golf course was packed as there was a 2 day tournament in progress. The Volcano museum is built around a house excavated from the lava. It took 7 years (2005 to 2012) to excavate and there is an interesting audio visual tour of the timeline of the volcanic eruption (january to july 1973). Upstairs is dedicated to the eruption in 1963 that created Surtsey Island. To kill time before the ferry at 5 pm, we found a cafe for coffee and cake. It was a 2 hour drive to our final stop, Mar Guesthouse in Grindavik.
Day 14: Grindavik. Mar is a purpose built building comprising 30 rooms on two floors, situated next to a campsite in an industrial area on the outskirts of Grindavik. The reviews were mixed, including a lot of complaints about the wifi, and migrants hanging around outside. We chose it because it is close to the airport and has a laundry room. Our room was very spacious with a kitchenette, but there is a communal kitchen for those in rooms without one. We didn’t experience any difficulties with the wifi and thought that perhaps the Icelandic government was housing migrants there as some rooms seemed to be set-up for longer stays with plants in the windows. After doing our laundry we hiked to the viewpoint overlooking Fagradjokul volcano, which erupted in 2021. It was a good 6 km plus round trip but well worth the effort. Our fish & chip dinner at a restaurant next to Mar was very good (with apple cake & cream for dessert).
Day 15: Grindavik to Keflavik (26 km) for our SAS flight to Tromso (via Oslo) at 12:15 pm. We got up early, had breakfast & packed the car for the short drive to the airport. After dropping the car off we walked to the terminal. Check-in was smooth and with no SAS lounge we found a nice coffee shop in departures. Two couples next to us were on the same flight and were also booked on our cruise out of Tromso.
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